Hiking El Camino de Santiago for Cystic Fibrosis: Day 12: San Juan de Ortega to Burgos

Sue the Matador!

Left San Juan around 7:00 after a great night's sleep. Most of our hike was on earthen trail and as we were walking we were startled by a group of horses. Not sure if they were wild our not. We then came upon a herd of bulls just walking on the trail. For a while I was thinking I might have to go into matador mode as my backpack is red and my pole would have to be my sword. Lucky for us they could have cared less and we continued on our way. The weather was overcast and cool...perfect for hiking. We ran into several friends as we stopped for a snack or in Steve's case, his daily chocolate croissant. We left a village of 20 and today are in a city of 175,000. Slightly different vibe. For many people this will be where they stop their Camino journey (coming back another time to complete it) and others will now hop a bus to Leon eliminating the toughest mental part of the trip. We will be on the Meseta, which is a lonely, hot, mostly flat desert type area – roughly 125 miles with few towns or villages. We will begin this trek tomorrow. Burgos appears to be a sweet city with lots of shops and cafes. We had a delicious lunch at an Italian restaurant...hate to admit it but we still don't love the Spanish food.

Some funny Camino stories:

One gal was seriously considering bringing an electric toothbrush

While someone else cut their toothbrush in half to save weight!

Met a guy who bought a solar powered contraption thinking that was the only way to charge his electronics. He refused to get rid of it because he paid $120

Heard of a German guy who emptied out an Albergue because his snoring was like a freight train. He also slept with a teddy bear.

Have met several people who have had to sleep outside on the cement because there was no room at the inn.

Our friend, Jim, has so far left his camera at a restaurant, forgot his guidebooks twice and lost his hat. His camera was recovered...luckily. He makes us laugh. I told him I hope he has pants on by the time we get to Santiago!

Up until yesterday, Steve had been carrying a rather heavy book that he finished reading in Barcelona. He wanted me to be able to read it also, but I hadn't found the time. Finally yesterday I read about 15 pages and realized I'd already read it. Into the garbage it went. Of course, I thought it was pretty darn funny (and actually Steve did, too).

My big sacrifice today on the Camino was leaving my t.p. in a bathroom that didn't have any. To some this may not seem like a big deal, but try being without it in the middle of nowhere, not good!! Luckily, I've been very organized in that area.

I'm sure more anecdotes will come my way, but for now that's all I can think of.

We visited the Gothic Cathedral here in Burgos and were able to visit over 20 individual chapels within the main cathedral. Really overwhelming. Something I've always found interesting while traveling in Italy and now Spain is that no matter their religious beliefs people like to visit the Catholic churches and they hold tremendous intrigue for many religions. Last night a new friend, Claire, joined us for mass and although she said she's not the least bit religious, she really enjoyed it. We've now received 3 special pilgrim blessings and although they're only in Spanish, they give us the printed English version. They're always very special.

Tomorrow our incredible paraplegic friends will say good-bye and head home to southern Spain. I know tears will be shed as we say good-bye to the three of them and all their caregivers (who include wives, dads, friends, etc). What a blessing to have met them on our very first day. I know God sent them to our dinner that night. Such special people...and that is the way of The Way. People come and they go, but you never forget certain ones who are an inspiration.

Calling it an early night as after nearly 200 miles, we are a little tired. Cate said, "it sounds like a piece of cake!" Believe me, it is not a piece of cake, it's far better! Love to all!